Douglas Austin's profile

A Brief History of Surfing

Creating worker-oriented buildings that promote the productivity and morale of their users for decades, Douglas Austin is an architect based in San Diego. In his spare time, Douglas Austin enjoys surfing in the San Diego area. The history of surfing involves practitioners of diverse backgrounds and international influences.

Though surfing has existed in some form for hundreds of years, the form most recognizable today was created in Hawaii. Practiced by people of all social classes, surfing was performed using wooden boards, with longer boards belonging to royalty. Strict social etiquette, called kapu, dictated which social class claimed which surfing spots and the board types used, among other aspects of the sport and people’s lives. Remnants of kapu remain in the modern day, in the proper conduct expected between surfers.

In the 19th century, when Europeans came to the Hawaiian islands, surfing’s popularity waned. The people native to the islands worked on sugar cane plantations, which reduced their leisure time. Previously, preparing food and meeting other living requirements took only a few hours daily, leaving more time to enjoy activities such as surfing. However, surfing experienced a resurgence in popularity in the mid 20th century.

Twentieth-century developments in surfboard construction drew on materials sciences and engineering. California-based aerospace engineers used their expertise to create more durable and streamlined surfboards, as well as wetsuits, which allowed for surfing in colder waters. The 16-foot length boards, common at the time, were shortened to eight feet. Features like fins and pointed noses were added, granting surfers greater mobility and control, opening up the option to ride larger waves in more severe environments.
A Brief History of Surfing
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A Brief History of Surfing

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